After two years of being somewhere between almost closed and closed, Bali is starting to open up. Foreigners still have to be vaccinated and tested and quarantine in a hotel in Jakarta first - now for three days - but it's not the week it was two months ago when Katrinka returned. We hear more planes overhead. Still just a dribble but it's slowly opening. Our beach is still almost entirely locals coming for ceremonies and in the cool late afternoon. Frequently almost empty. Places that can't hang on any longer are still closing and others with new cash and optimism opening. Will it ever be the same as it was? Hard to wish for that and, seeing so many hurting, hard not to.
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