Was there 24 years ago. Just five of us - Elin and her sister Diana, my eldest son Kelly and one year old Clay and me.
A driver (who cost $20 a day) was slowly driving us around the island.
He drove up to a little shack on the beach where we got some rice and soda then took a little boat over to snorkel by Menjangang. It was just us. Fantastic colorful fish galore. I watched a poisonous turkey fish dance in front of me. Kelly had a large fish ram right into him. We survived and we remembered. That was May and was off season and this time was high season August, but I heard that even in August back then there wouldn't have been anything like the crowds that go there now. This time there were maybe a dozen boats with a dozen people each. We weren't all at the same place at the same time and it was still great but I can't help but look wistfully back on that first time. Our guide said that the water is much warmer this year and that there is now bleaching in the coral which means it's dying. It can come back of course but that's not the general direction things seem to be going these days. We'll see.